Following my north Batan tour from my recent blog post, the next day I decided to go to Sabtang island. I availed my solo Sabtang tour from Ysabelle Homestay for only Php1,300. It was quite reasonable because Kuya Mik, my tour guide, brought along his motorcycle with him up to Sabtang Island but we’ll get to that later. The morning was frighteningly dark. From sunshine and clear skies the day I arrived, I finally saw the real Batanes weather. I thought that my Sabtang tour was going to get canceled because the sky looked like it was almost the end of the world. Ate Elma told me that it may still push through depending on the harshness of the waves we will be sailing through. Going to Sabtang, you need to start early in the morning because the boat going to the island leaves at around 7am everyday. After freshening up and eating the breakfast prepared by Ate Elma, me and Kuya Mik went on to our journey to the port.
The motorbike ride to the port was one of the best things I have experienced. The cold breeze and the dark clouds made it such a surreal experience. The huge cliffs and the mountains we passed by were so scenic that I felt so small and insignificant against mother nature.
It was still quite dark and rainy when we arrived at the port, but when they started giving out the life jackets, that’s when we knew the journey would push through. The boat ride to and from Sabtang island will cost about Php 200. Kuya Mik’s motorbike was then tied safely on the front part of the boat together with the other motorcycles. He told me not to sit on the front part if I didn’t want to get wet from the splashing waves.
I can now say that I have experienced the real Batanes weather. It was so exciting for the waves were big and the skies were gloomy. The boat was kind of small and may tip over. It was awesome!
We arrived the Port of Sabtang, a line of tricycles and vans were waiting there for their guests. We only had a few hours to tour Sabtang Island but before that, we needed to go to their municipal hall and pay their municipal fee of Php 200. Kuya Mik started our tour at Chavayan Village, it was on the farthest part of the island. He said it’s better to start there because the flock of tourists would most likely go there last.
The ride to Chavayan village was indeed majestic. Cliffs and rough roads before you get to the village. On our way there, we spotted a very rare bird called the Black-faced Spoonbill. Kuya Mik quickly stopped the motorbike as he saw the bird in its peaceful endeavor. I couldn’t get a clearer picture though, but we were really lucky. I think we were the only ones who saw the bird that time.
Chavayan consisted of cute little stone houses which endure the wrath of typhoons in Batanes. I also got to try on a “Vakul”, a head protection made by the Ivatan people to protect them from the rain and the heat of the sun. I was also shown how they clean the dry leaves used for the Vakul.
King Kong vibes in here. Reminds me of Skull Island.
Here in Batanes, the coconut crab is very common. I got to see one from a little shop that sells souvenirs. The coconut crabs are now actually endangered in Batanes as to why it’s not allowed to bring them home back to Manila. I didn’t try to eat one tho, for I didn’t want to contribute to the decline of the species.
Next up, we headed to Chamantad-Tinyan viewpoint. I was out of words when I saw all the glory that is this place. It was so beautiful, it was a great place to have an existential crisis. One thing I was scared about though was the very very strong wind. It was literally blowing me away. Be careful when walking near cliffs while the winds are strong. Kuya Mik couldn’t take a proper photo of me because of the strong winds.
We then went to Savidug Village. It was said that Yeng Constantino’s music video for “Ikaw” was also shot here.
The very last stop of our Sabtang island tour was in Morong beach where we were scheduled to have lunch. In Morong beach, you will also find the Makabuang Arc.
Since I was traveling alone, I was reserved a solo seat when we had our lunch in Sabtang. When touring Sabtang, you will most likely be with other tourists or groups that are on tour that day. Also, there is only one place where guests have lunch and that is the one in Morong beach. I was pretty hungry as I was waiting alone for my food. Kuya Mik and the other tour guides ate at another area. I was not informed that it was going to be a set meal. When the ‘Ate’ came in with my food, I asked “Ate, sa akin ba to lahat?” (Is this all mine?) and she said yes, laughing at my reaction. Maybe she was also surprised that I was alone traveling. For all Sabtang tours, you only have a choice of a set meal which costs Php 300.
See the yellow rice right there? That’s Turmeric rice and it is my favorite. The Ivatan people love to put turmeric on their dishes and I have no problem with that.
You may ask why is eating a set meal the only option? Why can’t I eat at other eateries? What if I don’t have a tour guide? You will most definitely have a tour guide. Unfortunately, doing a DIY solo trip and visiting sites in Batanes on your own is quite impossible now. They require visitors to have a tour guide. Yes, it’s REQUIRED. If you’re on a tour, everyone goes on the same exact tour and everyone eats at the same place. I’ll get more to that later.
Thus concludes the end of our Sabtang tour. The boat ride back to Batan was quite bouncy. Much harsher than the ride to Sabtang. The waves were pretty high but the sun was already smiling at us.
When we arrived back to Batan, I still had hours to spare. I decided to go back to Fundacion Pacita and just spend the afternoon there. Cafe du Tukon is a little quaint cafe and restaurant with gorgeous views. Food prices are quite expensive because you are kind of paying for the view. I had pasta and an iced tea for a total of Php558.
On my last day in Batanes, I went on the South Batan tour. This time I wanted to get a feel of those little hut tricycles so I availed of a tricycle tour to avoid the heat of the sun. Again, I arranged my tour with Ysabelle Homestay. Kuya Tino was once again my tour guide for the day.
We started the South Batan tour at Chawa view deck. It was a view spot facing the ocean but the highlight of this place is the staircase down. Strong waves were crashing against huge rocks. I suddenly wanted to sing “The Winner Takes It All” just like Meryl Streep from Mamma Mia haha.
Kuya Tino mentioned that there were locals who already died here. They went down that rock platform unsupervised, not knowing that the strong waves could take them away. Please be do careful, those waves aren’t weak.
Next, we went to Mahatao Boat Shelter Port. This is where fishermen boats are parked, as well as the coastal guard. I also got a chance to buy Taho from a very nice kuya.
We then went to Tayid Lighthouse. It was so beautiful that I wanted to spend like a few more hours there just sitting down and pondering about life.
Look at those cows there just chilling and living the life.
After the lighthouse, my most favorite part of the tour was Racuh a Payaman or the Marlboro Country. Vast rolling hills make me a happy child. The views are amazing as always! It was hard to take proper photos though because of the harsh wind. You can definitely sing “The Sound of Music” here.
After a very long tricycle ride down the hills, we arrived at the famous Alapad rock formation. It was saddening that I saw trash just right by the sea. Please keep your trash with you as you tour around.
You can see the famous “BLOW UR HORN” sign everywhere in Batanes where there’s a sharp blind turn.
Next up, the famous Honesty Coffee shop. Now there was a word going on around that Honesty Coffee shop required an entrance fee before you can go in, but when I went there, no entrance fee was paid for I can assure that. I bought a few snacks to bring home such as the Bukayo.
From food to clothes and other souvenirs you can find them here in Honesty Coffee shop. You just need to write down the stuff you bought on the little notebook they have inside. This is for their inventory purposes. You pay by inserting your money on one of the boxes there. They do not have change so you really need to pay the exact amount.
We then on traveled to the House of Dakay. It is the oldest house in Batanes. You can see from the structure that it is the traditional Ivatan house that needed to endure the harsh weather.
Before we go to our last stop and end the day with lunch, we passed by the Spanish Bridge. It was built during the Spanish era and is still being used today by the Ivatan people.
Our last stop for the South Batan tour is the Homoron White Beach. It was a quiet beach with shallow waters perfect for swimming! We didn’t get to go to the Spanish Lagoon because construction was ongoing.
Alas, we ended the day with lunch at Paulvanas. I ate with Kuya Tino because I couldn’t possibly finish everything on the set meal. Everything was delicious or maybe I really was just hungry from all the touring.
I also loved the Nilagang Baka with seaweed. I’m not quite sure what kind of seaweed it was but it tasted really good and resembled a Miso soup.
Thus that ends my South Batan tour. I spent the rest of my night packing and chatting with Ate Elma back at the homestay. Getting back to requiring a tour guide in Batanes. Yes, unfortunately, it was recently approved by their municipality to require all visitors with tour guides. So to those wanting to go to Batanes and doing a DIY trip, you can’t go alone for you need have a tour guide with you. There are several tour agencies around Batan which can help you with touring around. Though if you are a solo traveler like me, I highly recommend doing an “angkas” tour (motorbike tour) because it is cheaper and you can talk to your kuya tour guide on which places you want to go to first.
A short funny story just when I was about to leave Batanes. The morning of my flight was rainy. I woke up to the sound of harsh winds outside the homestay. The powerlines were also out. The winds were very strong and I feared that my flight might get cancelled. I ate my last breakfast at Ate Elma’s with only a lamp infront of me. I started to get nervous that I might not be able to go back to Manila because I had work the next day. As always, the weather in Batanes is quite bipolar. I still went to the airport and the Skyjet people still pushed through with the flight, thank god!
That concluded my stay in Batanes. It was indeed something new for me. Traveling alone in my own country and immersing myself with the locals. The Ivatan people are genuinely nice. I’ve never felt more welcomed. I have nothing but nice things to say about my stay with Ysabelle Homestay. Ate Elma’s family made me feel like I had a family in Batanes as well. Saying goodbye to this marvelous place is heartbreaking. If only I could stay a few more weeks or months just getting along with nature. I couldn’t go to Itbayat Island anymore due to limited time. They say people get stranded there for a few days if the weather becomes bad.
If there was a place I’d like to live in here in my home country, it would be Batanes. Never mind the no internet part and the part where there are no commercialized areas. I would love to immerse myself in this kind of environment. I hope I could visit Batanes again soon. Hopefully to visit Itbayat this time. I still can’t believe I went here alone. Just a dream once, a dream that someday you would be coming with your loved ones. But when people you once cared about start to leave you, that’s when you’ll have the drive to go. I still have my dream, even if I was left with nothing. 🙂
Until we meet again Batanes!
- Skyjet Roundtrip Flight- Php 12,260
- Ysabelle Homestay 4 days and 3 nights with Breakfast- Php 1,350
- Batanes Eco Tourism Fee- Php 350
- Beehan Lunch Meal- Php 120
- North Batan Tour- Php 1000
- Beehan Dinner- Php 140
- Sabtang Tour- Php 1,300
- Boat ride to and from Sabtang- Php 200
- Sabtang Municipal Fee- Php 200
- Set Meal Morong Beach, Sabtang- Php 300
- Cafe Du Tukon Meal- Php 558
- South Batan Tricycle Tour- Php 1500
- Paulvana Set Meal- Php 300
- Beehan Dinner- Php- 100
TOTAL: Php 19, 678
If you would like to stay with Ysabelle Homestay in Batanes, check out their facebook page below. You may also contact them using the number below.
Santana St. Brgy. Kaychanarianan Basco, Batanes
(+63) 928 234 2542